YADAHALLI, India — It is barely dawn in my home village and the cowherd has already brought fresh milk into the kitchen (cows and water buffalo are pastured in the surrounding forests). The cook, Umesh Madalgi, is preparing upit, a savory cream of wheat dish that we eat for breakfast, and three women are kneading millet dough for rotis, thin tortilla-like rounds that we have at lunch and dinner.

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