MASAYA, Nicaragua — The restaurant Cocteles y Ceviches El Pollo, located in the town square here, is a modest, squat building with yellow walls and a sloping, red-tiled roof. The food coming out of the small kitchen must be good, judging from the never-thinning crowd waiting for a table. It is a rule of thumb when traveling: A crowd outside a restaurant means good food; a crowd of only locals means exceptional food.

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